Choosing a computer
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To do and know before buying and using a computer
Before buying a computer, you should realise that the computer industry nowadays uses you and other customers as not only unpaid, involuntary, and unqualified but often even as unknowing product testers and quality control engineers. Many people buy shiny new computers whose defects are hidden, and they don't realise that they could and should perform some easy, basic hardware tests (or ask a technician to do so) to ensure that their computer doesn't die shortly after the warranty expires. Even if the problem becomes apparent during the warranty period and the store is willing to replace or repair the defective hardware for free, this will cause you unnecessary grief and waste lots of time. You will have to be without your computer for a while, and you may have to spend hours reinstalling many programs (and hunting them down) and readjusting your computer's settings (after lots of fiddling and searching). And since almost no one has an automatic, regular backup method, important documents, photos, and other files are also almost always lost when there is a major computer problem.
In such a case of lost personal files, it's often little consolation to know that consumer protection laws in many countries extend the full warranty rights and even more rights for longer periods than the manufacturer is willing to grant voluntarily. If your valuable files are gone (or the store, usually dishonestly, claims this), or you think they're gone because you don't know how to get them back, it's little consolation to realise you can probably demand the repair for free if the normal product lifetime (service life) has not yet been exceeded. It may however make you feel better, and it may also be a major consolation if you're on a tight budget. So check whether your national or state laws say or imply that manufacturers are responsible for product defects that appear during the normal, average service life of the product. This is usually considered at least five years by the courts and authorities and therefore much more than even the longest (3-year) warranties voluntarily granted by manufacturers.
You should realise that computer prices have gone down so much not only due to lower prices for parts but also due to less use of human labor and more use of automation in the manufacturing process. Although this can have benefits in the form of less possibilities of human error, it also means that all manufacturers have drastically reduced quality control. Reliable quality control requires human intervention, and all manufacturers have had to reduce use of human labor as much as possible in order to be able to compete with cheaper products built with more automation and less labor and/or cheaper labor.
However, a sign of the gross lack of responsibility of computer manufacturers and of the passiveness of consumer protection authorities is that most computers are no longer tested in any way before leaving the factory, not even by an automated process. You are most likely the first person to press the power switch and you should have a reliable notation method like paper and pencil ready and should note down any strange computer or monitor behavior. The practice of saving labor and production costs by using cheap parts and by having no human quality control has rapidly spread to most other electronic and electric appliances throughout the household (and is even influencing the previously strictly regulated car industry). If your computer or your monitor, printer, or other attached devices malfunction, you need to have a clear record of what you observed, and most normal users forget all essential details if they're not written down.
Especially if you buy your computer from a large, cheap retailer, you should consider taking it to a local computer repair shop for a checkup before you invest too much time in installing programs and adjusting the settings. The extra money for 1 to 2 hours of labor is the best possible investment you can imagine and may save you lots of money, time, and grief. You might even consider buying the computer from the local store because they may include that checkup service for free in computers they sell. They may also provide some degree of advice and support for free, and this may make the total cost of ownership for a seemingly more expensive computer lower than that of a cheap large retailer's product that has lousy support and is more liable to malfunction.
If you want to check your new computer yourself, you should read this wiki's article on hardware troubleshooting and diagnostics and at the very least use a program such as SpeedFan (http://www.almico.com/sfdownload.php) to check whether your shiny new computer's processor is overheating because it's defective or perhaps incorrectly attached to the heat sink (although note that the thermometers often are not accurate). And this site (http://www.technibble.com/what-is-my-computers-maximum-cpu-temperature) will tell you what your computer's maximum safe temperature is.
In addition to chaining to the computer the computer manual and any documentation with information about the computer and all CDs with programs and drivers, everybody should also install and run a program like Everest (http://www.majorgeeks.com/download4181.html) and print out its results. It provides easier to understand information about their computer than in (Start < All programs < Accessories < System tools <) System information, and the day will probably come when you'll need to be able to answer techs asking for that info.
What to look for in a new computer
In today's market, it is very easy for one person to buy a computer which is grossly underpowered compared to another computer in the same price range bought by someone else. It may seem odd, but even computers purchased a few years ago may be slower now than when they were purchased, not due to inefficiency because of age, but due to the increased requirements of today's Internet environment (firewalls and anti-spyware). Here are some guidelines on what to look for:
1. Memory: 512MB of memory (RAM) should be a bare minimum, and 1GB or higher is strongly recommended. 128 MB of memory can make a 3Ghz computer run Windows XP as slow as a 300Mhz computer with 512 MB. Increasing the amount of memory is one of the cheapest ways to improve speed. Name-brand manufacturers often skimp on memory because most people think that the CPU speed is more important.
2. Hard drive: An 80GB drive should be considered the minimum. However, note that as of 2007 May 7, if you are building a computer or having one built, a 320 GB drive (4 times bigger) can be had for twice as much money as the 80 GB, and will probably be faster, too, while a 500 GB (6.25 times bigger) can be had for 3 times more money.
3. CPU: As of 2007 May 3, most CPUs have been between 2.5 Ghz and 3.4 Ghz in (effective) speed for a year or so, and it looks like they will probably stay there for a while. AMD and Intel have instead been adding multiple cores to the chips to increase performance. Extra features to look for, if you can afford them, and in approximate order, are x64 capability, dual-core, and virtualization support. 64-bit should be considered mandatory if you're building a system. Note that laptop speed ranges tend to be lower than desktop speed ranges. Try to avoid Intel Celeron, AMD Duron or AMD Sempron CPUs; they have a small cache compared to mainstream CPUs, thus making them slower than they need to be. Also avoid Intel Xeon and AMD Opteron; they're intended for servers, and require more expensive memory and often require special motherboards.
4. Be sure to get an optical drive which can both read and write both CDs and DVDs. At present, most aftermarket drives are "Dual Layer" capable, and many support LightScribe. The 64-bit version of Windows Vista apparently needs a dual-layer drive.
5. Windows Vista Home is sufficient for most people. If you buy a computer off the shelf, check the specs to be sure that it comes with Windows Vista, unless you're specifically looking for a computer that has something else; you may get a low-balled system that has NO operating system at all.
6. Display: Flat-panel (NOT the same as "flat-screen", which refers to a type of CRT) displays have become popular, since they are near the prices of CRTs, lighter, take up much less desk space, and are often better in other ways also. Try to get a flat-panel display which either has both DVI and VGA connectors, or has a DVI connector with a VGA adapter. Try to avoid those that have only a VGA connector. If your computer has a DVI connector, use that to connect the display. Other things to look for are fast refresh rates and larger sizes. Note that a 17" flat-panel has more display area than a 17" CRT, but less than a 19" CRT. Wide-screen displays are popular with some people.
7. Warranty. Some items only have a warranty of 1 year or less, which implies lack of confidence on the part of the manufacturer; if they have no confidence, why should you? 3-year warranties are better, but do NOT buy extended warranties, since they are wasted if the equipment is damaged or stolen, and by then you can probably get newer (better) equipment for the same or less money. Instead, find out what the charge is for the extended warranty, and put that money away in a savings account. Note that cases and power supplies normally only have 1-year warranties, which is ok, since it's usually not worth the expense of shipping them back anyway.
8. Other software. Many name-brand consumer systems come not only with Windows, but also games, trial versions of software, and so forth. When such a system is purchased by a technician, often the technician will wipe out the entire hard drive and reinstall Windows fresh, so that the trial software and other unwanted/unneeded stuff is gone. Note that even uninstalling software will generally still leave the system running slower than if everything is installed fresh. Software offered for trial purposes is usually there as part of a deal, not because it's actually superior. Models of computers offered to businesses generally do not have trial software installed; usually they'll have Microsoft Windows XP Professional and Microsoft Office installed. You'll also tend to get better (faster and more knowledgeable) tech support with business models, not to mention less reluctance to replace parts.
9. Software that you should expect to need. Most consumers buy Microsoft Windows Vista Home, as well as some type of office product, such as Microsoft Office, Microsoft Works, Corel Office, or the free OpenOffice. Nowadays, any computer that directly or indirectly connects to the Internet should have a firewall, antivirus, and anti-spyware software. Some people have multiple applications for each. For example, AOL will automatically install such software, with little or no attempt to ask if it's ok. Multiple applications for each purpose should be avoided, since it can cause conflicts and make the computer slower than it needs to be, for little or no extra benefit.
10. Make sure that you get a surge protector power strip. One that can protect cable and phone line is best, since lightning can travel along those wires just as well as along electrical wires.
11. A business should seriously consider a small UPS, sufficient to run a computer and monitor for at least 15 minutes (test annually, especially after about 5 years of age), especially for customer-facing systems. These can be had for slightly more than the price of a high-end power strip. This will keep power brownouts, flickers, and seconds-long outages from causing minutes-long delays to restart the computer and re-enter data, or longer delays due to data or software corruption. People who live away from a city and often get lightning surges should also consider one. Note that there are different levels of UPSes, with higher levels providing increased protection. More expensive UPSes usually provide better protection (in addition to longer run time), but not always.
12. The best prices are usually available online. Check both the web sites for stores relatively near to you, and for computer manufacturers. Failing to shop around is the best way to be "taken". Popular sites for buying decent-quality computer equipment at decent prices include http://www.newegg.com, http://www.tigerdirect.com, http://www.zipzoomfly.com, and http://www.outpost.com (also known as Fry's). Some sites, such as NewEgg, have reviews, which are valuable; pay close attention to these, and try to avoid items which don't have good reviews, or have only a few reviews. Also check at local "mom & pop" computer stores; they can build a computer to exact specifications. If you're looking for a high-end system, you can typically both save money AND get better specs this way (see next item). If you're interested in name-brand systems, check out the coupon codes available at http://www.couponmountain.com and similar sites. "Mom & pop" stores may also have rebuilt (trade-in) computers available for sale.
13. If you are considering paying more than about US$1000 for a system, you should seriously consider having one custom-built for you by a local "mom&pop" computer store or consultant; even "high end" name-brand "game" systems tend to be underpowered compared to a custom-built system in the same price range. A "top of the line" custom-built system can be had for between about US$1500 and US$2000 plus taxes, shipping, and assembly labor; if you pay significantly more than that, you should look closely at the specs of what you're supposedly getting.
Building your own computer
If you are building your own system or having one built, check for the following:
- 3 year warranty on all items (except maybe case and power supply). Note that some hard drives (primarily retail drives) come with 1 year warranties and some CPUs (primarily OEM CPUs) come with 1 year warranties; avoid these.
- Hard drive. Try to get a Serial ATA (SATA) hard drive. As of 2007 May 6, 320-500 GB SATA 3.0 drives with 16MB cache are available for $79-$130, at 24 to 26 cents per gigabyte, only 2x to 3.25x the price of an 80GB. Note that most OEM drives are not only cheaper, but have a longer warranty than retail drives.
- 400 watt power supply or better. These generally only have a 1-year warranty, which is ok. You may find it cheaper to find a case at a local store instead of via internet/mail order. It often costs more to ship a case back than it is worth.
- Be sure to get a motherboard that has a socket type that matches the CPU; you are unlikely to be able to get a refund/replacement because you chose poorly. Your choice of motherboard can be critical; many, such as SIS-based boards, are inexpensive and therefore popular with manufacturers of consumer name-brand systems, but offer noticeably slower performance than many boards based on other chipsets. Try to get a board that has PCI Express slots, and at least 6 USB ports. Unless you are an audiophile, onboard sound will probably be sufficient for you. Onboard LAN will do for most cases, even servers, but try to get gigabit-speed LAN.
- Video. Most people prefer video as an add-on card; try to get a PCI Express-x16 video card with a fairly new ATI or nVidia chipset and with at least 128MB of video memory (256MB or higher is recommended) and DirectX 10 support.
- Be sure to get memory that is compatible with your motherboard and CPU. Some motherboards will run memory twice as fast with two sticks than with one, so check the documentation to see if two sticks is either recommended or required. Research the CPU specs to find out what memory it is designed for.
- Be sure to have sufficient fans for cooling; in addition to the power supply fan and CPU fan, there may be a fan on the video card. Some older motherboards had chipset fans, but due to problems, these have been dropped. You should consider at least one case fan.
- Be cautious about buying refurbished items. CRT monitors seem to be especially risky. If you must buy a refurbished item, try to find one with a warranty that meets or exceeds the low end of new warranties. For example, a refurbished monitor with a 1-year warranty is a much better risk than one with only a 1-month warranty. Used monitors seem to be a much better risk than refurbished monitors.
- Mice: Get an optical scroll mouse. The scroll wheel has become standard, and optical mice do not have trouble with the ball and wheels underneath getting dirty. Mouse pads are optional on most surfaces; don't let anyone tell you otherwise. Many people seem to be determined to use a mouse pad even when the mouse very obviously works better without. Wireless mice seem to be not quite yet a mature technology in Windows XP, but are supported in Windows Vista. If possible, get a mouse that has both USB and PS/2 connectors; PS/2 is still popular, but is going away in favor of USB.
- Keyboard: A plain keyboard works just fine for most people; few people seem to use the special buttons on "multimedia" keyboards. Just like mice, wireless keyboards seem to be not quite mature technology in Windows XP, but are supported in Windows Vista. If possible, get a keyboard that has both USB and PS/2 connectors; PS/2 is still popular, but is going away in favor of USB.
Minimum specifications for "Vista Ready" computers
- 1 Ghz CPU or faster.
- 1 GB or more of memory.
- A video card that supports Windows Aero, which means, among other things, that it has at least 128 MB of memory (256 MB or more recommended), and supports DirectX 9.
- 40 GB or larger hard drive with at least 15 GB of free space.
- DVD drive. To install the 64-bit version (if you have a 64-bit CPU), a Dual-Layer DVD drive is needed.
